Baaba Sarpong, a teacher and makeup enthusiast, walked into a shop in Kumasi to purchase cosmetics to enhance her appearance. Like many others, she was unaware that her lipstick or eyeliner might contain harmful chemicals known as PFAS — “Forever Chemicals” linked to cancer, infertility and hormone disruption.
Even the shop attendant assisting Baaba was unfamiliar with PFAS and the growing global concern around their use in everyday products, including cosmetics.
Their shared unawareness reflects a national gap in consumer education and regulation – one that health experts warn could have severe consequences.
Unlike Ghana, countries such as France, Canada, Germany, Norway, Denmark, Netherlands and Sweden are taking action.
Beginning in 2025, several of these nations will begin banning household products like non-stick cookware that contain PFAS.
Ghana, however, lacks a clear national policy or regulatory framework on the matter.
PFAS in Cosmetics: A Hidden Threat
Polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are synthetic chemicals used to make products resistant to water, grease, stains and heat.
Nicknamed “Forever Chemicals” because they persist in the environment and human body for decades, PFAS are found in a wide range of items from fire fighting foam and fast-food wrappers to mascara, nail polish and feminine hygiene products.
Dr. Martin Agyei, a senior Dermatologist at the Komfo Anokye Teaching Hospital (KATH) is sounding the alarm.
In an interview with The Chronicle, he urged the government to take immediate action to regulate PFAS in cosmetics and personal care products sold in Ghana.
Without naming specific brands, Dr. Martin Agyei identified products such as lipsticks, eyelash glues, nail polish and feminine wash as examples of cosmetic items that may contain PFAS.
He emphasised that while such products are not ingested, the skin remains a major absorption route for toxic compounds, making their long-term use a serious public health concern.
“Cosmetics are things we apply to the skin, we don’t swallow them but many of the chemicals used in them are easily absorbed through the skin.
“Even lipsticks, though applied externally, can find their way into the mouth through licking or habitual moistening of the lips.”
Among the most worrying revelations Dr. Agyei shared was the potential presence of PFAS in feminine wash products.
He explained that the mucosal lining of the female private part is very similar to the lining of the lips, making it highly absorptive.
“When I read about it, my heart sunk. Applying PFAS-laced products to such sensitive areas is like directly ingesting them,” he said, expressing concern about long-term exposure in women and girls.
Why PFAS Are Called “Forever Chemicals”
According to Dr. Agyei, PFAS earned the nickname “Forever Chemicals” because they take several decades to break down in the environment or in the human body.
“Even if you stop exposure today, it takes many years for just half of the PFAS burden to be eliminated from your body,” he revealed adding “what’s worse is that you keep unknowingly adding more to what’s already inside you through water, food, air, or everyday consumer products.”
Dr. Martin Agyei, a senior Dermatologist at KATH revealed that mounting scientific evidence links PFAS exposure to a wide range of health conditions, including: Thyroid dysfunction (hypothyroidism), increased cholesterol levels, Liver damage, Kidney cancer and Testicular cancer.
He further mentioned Breast cancer, reduced fertility in men and women, Pregnancy-induced hypertension, Delayed or early puberty, Low birth weight, Obesity and Miscarriages as health challenges which could be linked to PFAS.
“Sometimes couples struggle with unexplained infertility, not knowing it might be linked to years of exposure to PFAS in cosmetics or household items,” Dr. Agyei remarked.
He added that even early menstruation in girls as young as eight or nine years old, a growing concern in Ghana, could be associated with PFAS disrupting normal hormonal development.
“Once a girl starts menstruating early, she is biologically capable of conceiving, whether her body is ready or not. We have to ask hard questions about what we are exposing our children to.”
Breast Development, Birth Defects and Obesity
The senior Dermatologist at KATH also mentioned that PFAS may affect breast development in adolescent girls, leading to underdeveloped mammary glands even after puberty. Moreover, PFAS exposure during pregnancy can result in low birth weight, preterm birth and even long-term metabolic effects like obesity in both mothers and their children.
“You may think it is just a lotion or lipstick, but over time, these small exposures add up and affect critical developmental milestones.”
The Bigger Picture: PFAS Is Everywhere
While his concerns were centered on cosmetics, the KATH dermatologist clarified that PFAS exposure is not limited to personal care products. “It is in our drinking water, rainwater and groundwater. Even if you dig a well in your house, chances are the water may contain PFAS. That’s how widespread this is,” he lamented.
From Teflon to Time Bomb
Dr. Agyei traced the history of PFAS to 1938, when scientists developed Teflon, a non-stick coating designed to resist heat, oil, stains and water. “The chemical bonds in PFAS are among the strongest in chemistry. Once it enters the body, it is nearly impossible to break down. It has been with us for decades, and it is not going away anytime soon.”
Although he acknowledged some beneficial applications of PFAS, particularly in industrial and military settings, he emphasized that the health risks far outweigh the benefits in daily consumer use.
A Call to Action: Government Must Lead
Dr. Martin Agyei called on the Ghanaian government to follow the example of countries like France, which is phasing out PFAS in consumer products. He urged the state to take the lead in public education, research and regulation.
“We need a national body to address this. It should not be left to individuals or journalists alone. If you don’t have strong state intervention, you risk being accused of sabotage,” he said.
He praised pharmaceutical and manufacturing companies that have voluntarily stopped using PFAS in their products and called for more to do the same.
“Some companies are resisting because they know the public is not aware. But we are sitting on a time bomb. This is not something to joke with,” he warned.
In his parting remarks, Dr. Martin Agyei stressed that no matter how durable or useful PFAS products are, human health must come first.
“What is the point of a product that lasts long but kills the people it was meant to serve? Let’s value the lives of our citizens over corporate profits,” he concluded.
* This story was produced with support from a Science, Technology and Innovation Journalism Pitch Award, funded by the British Government and facilitated by the Ministry of Environment, Science and Technology (MEST) in collaboration with the Responsible Artificial Intelligence Lab at KNUST.
